Key takeaways
- Inspect in this order: neck, frets, body or top, hardware and electronics, then play it. Most deal-breakers appear in the first three checks.
- Cosmetic wear costs almost nothing to live with. Structural problems (cracks, neck angle, lifted bridge, snapped headstock) are what cost real money.
- Compare against what similar guitars actually sold for, not what sellers are asking.
- Add the cost of a setup and strings to the purchase price before deciding whether a deal is good.
The best used guitars are the ones that pass a ten-minute inspection: a straight neck with truss rod left to turn, level frets with life left, no cracks or lifted bridge on an acoustic, and electronics that work without crackle. Buy from a seller who lets you play it or return it, check the guitar against sold prices rather than asking prices, and budget for a setup. A used guitar that needs only strings and a setup is a bargain; one that needs a neck reset or a refret is usually not.
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Key takeaways
- Inspect in this order: neck, frets, body or top, hardware and electronics, then play it. Most deal-breakers appear in the first three checks.
- Cosmetic wear costs almost nothing to live with. Structural problems (cracks, neck angle, lifted bridge, snapped headstock) are what cost real money.
- Compare against what similar guitars actually sold for, not what sellers are asking.
- Add the cost of a setup and strings to the purchase price before deciding whether a deal is good.
How to buy a used guitar: the ten-minute inspection
Used guitars are often the best value in music gear, because a guitar loses most of its resale value in the first few years and then holds steady. The risk is that you inherit someone else’s problems. The good news is that nearly every serious problem is visible in a short, methodical inspection. This guide is a checklist you can run in a shop, in someone’s living room or by asking questions and photos online.
The advice below is general luthier and repair-shop practice and maker guidance, not our own experience of any particular guitar. Where a number is given, such as string height, it is the common setup target quoted by makers and repair shops.
| Step | What to check | How | Red flag |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1. Neck | Straightness and angle | Sight down the neck from the headstock; look for a gentle bow, not a hump or twist | Visible twist, hump, or a truss rod that has no adjustment left |
| 2. Frets | Wear and level | Look for flat spots and grooves on the first five frets; press-test for rocking frets | Deep grooves, lifting frets, many dead notes |
| 3. Body or top | Cracks, bulging, finish | Check along edges, behind the bridge and around the soundhole | Cracks that open when pressed, bulge behind bridge |
| 4. Bridge | Lifting or pulling | Slide a thin card under the edges (without forcing) | Gap under the bridge or a bridge that has moved |
| 5. Headstock | Repairs or breaks | Look at the neck-headstock joint in light from the side | Paint lines, a crack, or a repaired joint |
| 6. Hardware | Tuners, nut, saddle | Turn each tuner and watch for slippage; check the strings sit in the nut slots cleanly | Slipping tuners, chipped nut |
| 7. Electronics | Pots, switches, jack | Plug in and turn each control; wiggle the cable at the jack | Crackling, dead positions, cutting out |
| 8. Playability | Action, buzz, intonation | Play every string at several frets, then check the twelfth fret against the open string | Persistent buzz, notes that are sharp or flat up the neck |
The neck: the part that decides if the guitar is worth buying
A neck problem is the most expensive kind to fix. Hold the guitar with the headstock at eye level and sight down the fretboard from the nut toward the body. A very slight forward bow (relief) is normal, since strings need room to vibrate. A neck that curves backward, twists or has a sudden hump near the body joint is a concern.
Ask whether the truss rod has been adjusted before. If the seller or shop is willing, a gentle quarter-turn test of the truss rod nut shows whether it still has room to move. Do not force it; a stuck or stripped truss rod is a repair job. On an acoustic, also look at where the neck meets the body. If the fretboard extension rises up above the top, or the saddle is shaved down to almost nothing, the neck angle may have shifted and a neck reset may be needed, which is among the larger repair costs a used acoustic can carry.
Frets, nut and action
Frets wear where you play most, usually in the first five positions. Run your thumbnail along the side of the fretboard. If the fret ends feel sharp, the fretboard may have dried out and shrunk, which suggests a guitar that lived in a dry room. A guitar with deep fret grooves needs a fret dress or refret sooner or later, and that should lower the price.
String height at the twelfth fret is a quick playability measure. Repair shops commonly set an acoustic to around 6/64 inch (2.4 mm) at the low E string and 4/64 inch (1.6 mm) at the high E, and an electric to roughly 1.6 to 2.0 mm, though players vary. Much higher than that and the guitar is hard to play; much lower and it may buzz. Action can usually be adjusted, so treat it as a clue about neck health rather than a deal-breaker, unless the saddle or nut has no room to be lowered further.
Acoustic-specific checks
- Look behind the bridge. A bulge or a belly behind the bridge means the top is being pulled up by string tension. A slight swelling is common on older guitars; a pronounced one, especially with a lifting bridge, is a red flag.
- Check the bridge edges. If the front or back edge has lifted, the bridge is starting to pull off. This is repairable but expensive if it has damaged the top.
- Inspect for cracks. Shine a light across the surface from the side to see hairline cracks. A crack that is clean, short and stable can be repaired inexpensively, but long ones that run through the top or the back brace are serious.
- Look inside with a torch. Check for loose braces, rattles and glue residue from earlier repairs.
- Knock on the body. A tight, even response suggests everything is glued. A buzz or rattle may be a loose brace.
- Check the finish for humidity damage. Fine checking lines are cosmetic, but sunk tops and sharp fret ends suggest the guitar lived in dry air.
Electric-specific checks
- Test every control. Turn each knob and flip each switch while the guitar is plugged in. Crackle is often fixable with cleaning, but dead spots and cutting out can mean worn pots or a bad jack.
- Wiggle the output jack. A loose jack that cuts out is a cheap fix, but it can hide wiring issues.
- Check the neck pocket. On a bolt-on guitar, look for a tight, even fit between the neck and body with no gap.
- Look for non-original parts. Replaced pickups or tuners are fine if the price reflects it; replaced parts sold as “original” are not.
- Check for refinishing. A thick coat of paint over the contours, filled holes or overspray at the edges suggests a refinish, which lowers collectible value.
- Check for hum and noise. A buzz that changes when you touch the strings points to a grounding issue.
Red flags that should end the negotiation
- A repaired headstock break. Even a clean repair affects value and strength.
- A truss rod with no adjustment left. The neck may need replacing.
- A lifted bridge with a cracked top. This can lead to a top replacement.
- An unusually low price for a high-value model. Check serial numbers and hardware details against the maker’s published information, since counterfeits and Frankenstein builds exist.
- A seller who will not let you play or return it. Without either, you are buying blind.
Where to find the best used guitars: shops, marketplaces and local sellers
| Channel | Strengths | Risks | Good for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Independent guitar shops | Instruments are inspected and often set up; you can play it; some offer a warranty | Higher prices than private sales | First-time buyers |
| Chain store used departments | Wide choice, return policies, trade-in options | Setup quality varies | Mainstream models |
| Online marketplaces such as Reverb and eBay | Huge selection; sold-price history helps you compare | You cannot play it; shipping damage | Specific models, price research |
| Local classifieds and community groups | Possible bargains; you can inspect and play | No protection; scams and stolen goods | Experienced buyers |
| Pawn shops | Occasional bargains | Limited knowledge and setup | Confident inspectors |
For the best price on a specific guitar, look at what comparable instruments actually sold for. Marketplaces generally let you filter by “sold” listings, which tell you more than a seller’s asking price. For the best online store for guitars, choose a seller with a clear return policy, original photos of the actual instrument, detailed condition notes and a setup before shipping.
Price, setup and the real cost of a used guitar
A used guitar’s purchase price is only part of the cost. Work out the total with a short worksheet, using your own numbers. As an illustration with made-up round numbers, imagine the seller’s asking price is 100 units. A setup with new strings might add 15 to 25 units, and fret work or electronics repair could add another 10 to 40 depending on the shop. If comparable guitars in good condition have recently sold for 130 units, a total of 125 is a fair deal and 160 is not. The units are placeholders; the point is to add everything up before you agree on the price.
- Find three comparable sold prices. Use the same model, year range and condition.
- Estimate repairs. Strings and a setup are almost always needed. Add fret work, electronics or cracks if you see them.
- Add shipping and insurance if buying remotely.
- Compare the total with a new alternative. A new entry-level guitar with a warranty can beat a used guitar that needs repairs.
- Negotiate on documented flaws. Point to specific issues (fret wear, scratches, a replaced part) rather than asking for a general discount.
Selling a used guitar: the best place to sell
If you are on the other side of the deal, the same logic applies in reverse. Local shops will usually offer less because they need to resell at a profit, but the transaction is quick and safe. Online marketplaces reach a wider audience and usually give better money, at the cost of photos, shipping and fees. Clean the guitar, change the strings, photograph every side including the headstock and the back of the neck, list the serial number, and describe flaws honestly. Pack it in a hardshell case inside a sturdy box with the strings slackened slightly and the headstock supported, which reduces the risk of a snapped headstock in shipping.
Gear that helps
- Snark SN5X clip-on tuner: bring a tuner when you inspect a guitar. It lets you check the intonation by comparing the open string to the twelfth-fret note.
- MusicNomad Guitar ONE: a cleaner-polish for a freshly bought guitar. A clean guitar also makes it easier to spot any problems you missed.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the best used guitars to buy?
Mainstream models from established makers, such as Fender, Yamaha, Martin, Taylor and Gibson, tend to hold their value and are easy to inspect and resell. The condition matters more than the brand.
Are used acoustic guitars a good idea?
Yes, because a solid-top acoustic often sounds better as it ages. Check the top, bridge and neck angle carefully, and make sure it has been stored in a reasonable humidity range. A guitar that sat in a dry attic is a risk.
What should I check first on a used electric guitar?
Check the neck, then the frets, then the electronics. Plug it in and operate every switch and knob. Fixable problems such as dirty pots are fine, but structural issues are not.
How much should a setup cost?
Costs vary by region and shop, but a standard setup with strings is usually a modest fraction of the value of the guitar. Ask the shop what is included before you buy.
Is it safe to buy a used guitar online?
It can be, if you buy from a seller with a clear return policy, detailed photos and positive feedback. Avoid sellers who ask you to pay outside the platform.
How can I tell if a used guitar is fake?
Compare the headstock shape, logo, hardware and serial number with the maker’s published information, and be wary of prices far below the market. If in doubt, ask a technician or a reputable shop to look at photos.
Sources
- C. F. Martin and Company and Taylor Guitars, care and setup guidance
- Fender, guitar setup and care guides
- Reverb and eBay, published buying and selling guides
- Acoustic Guitar magazine and Premier Guitar, used-guitar buying articles
Last updated: October 2026
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