Key takeaways
- Start from the music, not the gear. The kind of songs you want to play decides the guitar type more than price or brand.
- Nylon strings hurt least in the first weeks, light-gauge electric strings are next, and steel-string acoustics are the hardest on the fingertips.
- An electric guitar is not a complete purchase on its own. Plan for an amp, a cable and a strap.
- Neck width and string spacing change how chords feel. Classical necks are the widest, which helps fingerstyle but stretches small hands.
The best types of guitars for beginners are a steel-string acoustic if you want to strum songs and sing, an electric if you want rock, blues or metal, and a nylon-string classical if you want the softest strings on your fingers and an interest in fingerstyle. There is no wrong first guitar, only a mismatch between the instrument and the music you actually want to play. Match the type to your first ten songs and you will practise more, which matters more than any spec.
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Key takeaways
- Start from the music, not the gear. The kind of songs you want to play decides the guitar type more than price or brand.
- Nylon strings hurt least in the first weeks, light-gauge electric strings are next, and steel-string acoustics are the hardest on the fingertips.
- An electric guitar is not a complete purchase on its own. Plan for an amp, a cable and a strap.
- Neck width and string spacing change how chords feel. Classical necks are the widest, which helps fingerstyle but stretches small hands.
Best types of guitars for beginners: which one to buy first
Three families cover almost every first guitar: classical (nylon strings), steel-string acoustic, and electric. They share the same six notes and the same chord shapes, so anything you learn on one transfers to the others. What differs is how the strings feel, how wide the neck is, what extra gear you need and what the music is meant to sound like.
The product mentions below come from maker spec pages and published reviews. We have not played these instruments ourselves, and the physical comparisons are standard measurements from the makers rather than our own measurements.
| Type | Strings | Typical nut width | Extras you need | Feel for new fingers | Best first music |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classical | Nylon | About 52 mm (2 in) | Tuner, footstool optional | Softest on fingertips, widest neck | Fingerstyle, flamenco, classical, bossa nova |
| Steel-string acoustic | Steel, often 12-53 gauge sets | About 43 mm (1 11/16 in) | Tuner, optional case | Firm strings, calluses take several weeks | Folk, pop, country, singer-songwriter |
| Electric | Steel, often 9-42 gauge sets | About 42-43 mm | Amp, cable, strap, tuner | Thin strings, low action, easier to press | Rock, blues, metal, indie |
| Acoustic-electric | Steel or nylon | Same as base type | Amp if you plug in | Same as base type | Players who want both worlds |
Classical guitar: the gentlest start
Nylon strings are under lower tension than steel, so the fingertips and left hand take less punishment. Classical necks are wide and flat, with a nut about 52 mm across, which gives each string more space. That is helpful for clean fingerpicking and difficult for small hands trying a full barre chord early on. The sound is warm and mellow rather than bright, and the music is traditionally classical, flamenco, Latin and Brazilian styles.
A classical guitar also needs the least extra gear: a tuner and a seat. Many beginners use a footstool or a support to raise the left leg, which helps the guitar sit at a playable angle. If your first musical goal is to sing along with pop songs, a classical guitar will work, but it will sound softer than the steel-string version you hear on most recordings.
Steel-string acoustic: the strum-and-sing choice
A steel-string acoustic is the guitar most people picture. It is loud enough to play alone, it needs no amp, and it fits campfire, folk, pop and country repertoire. The cost of that sound is tension. Steel strings are firm, and a new player usually has sore fingertips for the first few weeks until calluses form. Lighter strings and a good setup (low action) make a large difference, and many guitar shops will adjust a new instrument for a small fee.
Body size also matters. A dreadnought is the traditional large body with a big sound; smaller concert and parlour bodies are easier for shorter arms. Solid-top models typically sound better and age more gracefully than all-laminate instruments, which are more affordable but less responsive, as makers describe.
Electric guitar: easiest to press, but not complete
Electric guitars have thin strings and low action, which makes chords and bends physically easier than on a steel-string acoustic. The solid body is also comfortable for standing and recording. The trade-off is that the guitar is only half the instrument. You also need an amplifier, a lead and a strap, and an electric played unplugged is quiet. For a cost-conscious beginner, a starter pack is often the simplest way to get everything at once.
The choice within electrics comes down to pickups and body shape. Single-coil guitars such as Stratocaster and Telecaster styles sound bright and clean. Humbucker guitars sound thicker and handle distortion more quietly. Neither is better, so match the pickup to the music you want to play.
Match the guitar to your first ten songs
| If your first songs are… | Start with | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Pop and folk songs you can sing along to | Steel-string acoustic | Loud enough alone, standard for the genre |
| Classic rock riffs and blues licks | Electric | Distortion and sustain are part of the sound |
| Fingerstyle pieces, bossa nova, flamenco | Classical | Wide neck and nylon strings suit fingerpicking |
| A mix of everything | Acoustic or acoustic-electric | No amp required, flexible |
| You want to avoid sore fingers | Classical or electric | Lower tension, thinner strings |
| Apartment with thin walls | Electric with headphones or classical | Quiet practice options |
Scale length: the hidden spec that changes how a guitar feels
Scale length is the distance from the nut to the bridge saddle, and it sets string tension and fret spacing. A longer scale means more tension at the same pitch and frets that sit further apart. The differences are small on paper and noticeable under the fingers, especially for beginners with smaller hands.
| Guitar type | Typical scale length | What it means for a beginner |
|---|---|---|
| Classical (full size) | About 650 mm (25.6 in) | Long reach, but low-tension nylon strings |
| Fender-style electric | 25.5 in | Bright, snappy feel; slightly longer stretches |
| Gibson-style electric | 24.75 in | Slightly shorter reach, softer feel for bends |
| Dreadnought acoustic | About 25.4 in | Comparable to a Fender electric |
| Parlour or small-body acoustic | Often 24.75 in or shorter | Easier for small hands |
| Three-quarter or half-size guitars | Noticeably shorter | Suits children and very small hands |
If you have small hands or short fingers, choose a shorter scale or a smaller body. If you have a long reach, a standard scale is fine. Remember that shop staff can usually let you hold two or three models side by side, which is the best way to feel the difference.
What the first month feels like on each type
New players tend to notice the same things. The fingertips of the left hand feel sore for the first week or two on nylon and electric strings, and for up to a month on steel-string acoustics, until the skin toughens. Chord changes feel clumsy for several weeks regardless of guitar type. Tuning drifts often with new strings, because the strings are still stretching. These are normal. Practise in short sessions of 15 to 20 minutes a few times a day, which is easier on the fingers than one long session and builds memory faster.
A short note for left-handed players: all three types are available in left-handed versions, though selection is narrower and some models are made to order. Check availability before you commit to a specific model.
The checklist: what to look for in a first guitar
- Playability first. The distance between strings and frets (action) should be low enough that you can press a string without effort. If you can, hold it and try to fret a chord in the shop.
- Straight neck and clean frets. Sight down the neck from the headstock to check it is straight, and run a finger along the edge of the fretboard to feel for sharp ends.
- Tuning stability. The tuners should turn smoothly and hold. Cheap tuners that slip are a frequent frustration.
- Size. Smaller hands or children may be more comfortable on a three-quarter size or a smaller-body acoustic.
- A budget that includes accessories. Set aside money for a tuner, spare strings, a strap or footstool, and an amp if you go electric.
- A return option. Buy from somewhere that lets you swap or return the guitar if the neck or action turns out to be wrong.
Gear that helps
These are a few current beginner-friendly models that illustrate each type, based on maker specs and listings. They are not the only good choices.
- Yamaha C40 (classical): a full-size nylon-string guitar that is widely used as a first instrument. Nylon strings, wide neck, simple build.
- Yamaha FG800J (steel-string acoustic): a dreadnought with a solid top, a step above the typical laminate beginner guitar.
- Squier Sonic Stratocaster (electric): a Stratocaster-style guitar in the entry range, with maple fingerboard options.
- Fender Frontman 10G (amp): a 10 W practice combo with a headphone output, to pair with any starter electric.
Common mistakes when choosing a first guitar
- Buying the cheapest guitar available. Very cheap instruments often have high action and poor tuners, which makes learning harder and leads beginners to quit.
- Assuming you must start on acoustic. This is a common belief, but an electric can be easier on the hands, and what matters is that you want to play it.
- Ignoring the cost of an amp. An electric guitar with no amp is silent for practical purposes.
- Buying a guitar that does not match your music. A classical guitar for a metal fan will disappoint, however good the guitar.
- Skipping the setup. A shop adjustment of the action can transform a guitar. Ask for it.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the best types of guitars for beginners?
The three standard choices are classical, steel-string acoustic and electric. A classical guitar is the gentlest on fingers, a steel-string acoustic is the most common for strumming songs, and an electric is the best fit for rock and blues. Pick the one that suits the music you want to play.
Is acoustic or electric easier to learn on?
Electric guitars have thinner strings and lower action, so they are usually physically easier to play. Acoustic guitars are simpler to set up because they need no amp. Both are good first guitars.
Should I start on a classical guitar?
If you are interested in fingerstyle or classical music, or want the softest strings, yes. If you want the standard strummed-song sound, a steel-string acoustic is a closer match.
What is the best all-around guitar for a beginner?
For a general first guitar without a strong genre preference, a steel-string acoustic, ideally with a solid top, covers the most ground. An acoustic-electric version adds the option to plug in later.
How much should I spend on a first guitar?
Enough to avoid the worst budget instruments but not so much that you worry about damaging it. Many makers offer reliable entry models, and it is worth setting aside extra money for a setup and accessories.
Do kids need a smaller guitar?
Younger children often do better with a three-quarter or half-size instrument, which has a shorter scale length and a narrower neck. Match the size to the child’s arm length and hand span.
Sources
- Yamaha, C40 and FG800J product pages
- Fender and Squier, Sonic Stratocaster and Frontman 10G product pages
- Martin Guitar and Taylor Guitars, beginner and instrument-choice guides
- Guitar World and Acoustic Guitar magazine, beginner buying guides
Last updated: October 2026
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